For any frequency and amplitude wave packet, spread grains of pepper on the free-surface and along the bulk of the water. Observe the motion of the pepper grains as waves are passing to get an indication of the particle motion. What happens to the particles at the surface when a wave crest passes? When a wave trough passes?
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For any frequency and amplitude wave packet, spread grains of pepper on the free-surface and along the bulk of the water. Observe the motion of the pepper grains as waves are passing to get an indication of the particle motion. What happens to the particles at the surface when a wave crest passes? When a wave trough passes?
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