GEOG 121 Response Letter
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Holistic Transformation of Fashion Industry: Circular Fashion System
Brenda Gunawan ID: 29791829
University of British Columbia GEOG 121: Geography, Environment, Globalization Section 102
Dr. Jessica Dempsey and Dr. Mohammed Rafi Arefin
10 December 2023
Background
Fast fashion has been the biggest contributor to environmentalism degradation and many social problems (Stallard, 2022). According to Stallard, fast fashion can be determined as any mass-produced clothing using cheap production cost (Stallard). It is concerning because it flourishes among Gen z due affordability issues (Upton-Clarke, 2023). Fast fashion is popular and thriving because it is supported by the digitalization of the fashion market. According to Upton-Clarke, Gen Z has a tendency to have more concern towards environmental degradation but at the same time they develop a consumerism behaviour in terms of fast fashion shopping due to cost affordability and “buy-now-think-later” approach that is promoted by live shopping in social media platforms (Upton-Clarke, 2023). She thinks that live shopping has successfully boosted sales of fast fashion clothes because they are time sensitive (less time for consumer wise consideration), more affordable than sustainable products and purchasing it is usually very convenient, “just one click away” (Upton-Clarke, 2023). Fast fashion companies benefit the most
from this type of consumption behavior. The solution she proposed is to shop second hand and involve sustainable brands more in social media targeting Gen Z and jump to the live-shopping methods of selling (Upton-Clarke, 2023). Argument
The author of “The Devil Wears Shein” has valid points of views toward the reason why fast fashion is growing vigorously although people are well aware of the environmental cost of the industry. However, the solution she proposed doesn't entirely solve the problem because it only gives solutions for the consumer side, when the problem is more holistic. In order to have a
systemic change in the fast fashion business industry and to reduce the environmental cost, authority figures such as government and world certified organizations must strictly reinforce green and ethical business
practices to the supplier side of the fast fashion industry. There must
be a higher power to regulate and monitor the industry in order to achieve a transition to a circular fashion system
. Circular Fashion System
Instead of investing in a fast fashion garment, I think a switch to a circular fashion system can be a solution for a better environmental justice. For this system to be implemented, there must be strict regulations and policies which include factory monitoring and inspection. Transparency in the fashion supply chain is an important aspect in the inspection (Fraser & van der Ven, 2022). A circular fashion system is based on a more responsible approach in clothing production which main considerations are sustainable supply chain and waste management (Manshoven & Wim, 2022). This system includes: material substitution, equipment modification, machinery technology, and reuse/recycling in order to create an environmentally responsible garment (Toprak & Anis, 2017). Fraser and van der Ven studied how fashion company transparency can increase using many hypotheses to test on. Their research proposes that scandal is the biggest contributor to increasing company transparency. “
Retailers that have faced ethical or environmental scandals will have higher levels of transparency.” (Fraser & van der Ven, 2022). They gave the example of H&M that faced issues with discharge of chemical waste that polluted the waterway of their manufacturing factory, reported by the Greenpeace Detox Campaign in 2011 (Fraser & van der Ven 2022). As a result of months of pressure by the media, H&M pledged to cut back on the use of chemicals and revealed their lists of prohibited chemicals (Fraser & van der Ven, 2022). This case has shown us the importance of inspection and media coverage including public pressure in reinforcing a circular fashion system. Who is Responsible?
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Policy makers and stakeholders are responsible as they hold higher power than fashion corporations. They include: government, non-governmental organization (NGO), supranational organization, companies, sector federation, trade union or worker movement, research institute, fashion customer, and others (Manshoven & Wim, 2022). Manshoven and Wim conducted a survey to investigate the role of stakeholders in supporting government intervention in policy making for reinforcing sustainable / circulating fashion systems. They come to a conclusion that “Local governments and companies, as well as NGOs, have a role to play in provoking a culture
shift
from fashion consumerism towards conscious production and the use of more durable fashion, especially in terms of physical longevity and emotional attachment; achieved by establishing awareness campaigns
that engage consumers in fundamental behavioural changes, involving reduced consumption, longer use, repair, and adequate waste disposal” (Manshoven & Wim, 2022). Their surveys have shown that most stakeholders are supportive of mandatory regulations in terms of social justice, ensuring them to get a worker right and prevent
illegal forced / child labour (Manshoven & Wim, 2022). Besides mandatory regulations, non-
mandatory regulations can enhance the impact of mandatory regulation. Examples of non-
mandatory regulations are like voluntary industry targets, and awareness building as complementary measures (Manshoven & Wim, 2022). Is It a Feasible Solution?
Sustainable fashion and circulation in the textile value chain is not impossible to implement but the problem is fashion consumers buy more clothes and wear them for less time (
The Environmental Cost of Fast Fashion
). The United Nation Environment Program (UNEP) has partnered with Kariuki and she suggested that “
We need circular industries where old looks are made new” when the majority of fashion industries have a linear production system when clothes are disposed of and not recycled (
The Environmental Cost of Fast Fashion
)
. According to Rachel Cernansky in a Vogue Business article, it is challenging to implement a circular
fashion system, because advanced textile recycling technology is required (Cernansky, 2022). Circular Fashion requires transforming old garments into a new one and doing that is not easy (Cernansky, 2022). Only 20-25% of disposed garments are not recyclable and therefore can not
be resold (Cernansky, 2022). Regardless, some startup companies have committed to resolving
the gap of circulatory fashion by collecting disposed garments, sorting them based on fashion industry standards (colour and fabric composition), and distributing them to factories that are capable of recycling textile (Cernansky, 2022). One successful example is Siptex, a large-scale garment sorting facility in Sweden (Cernansky, 2022). Siptex has successfully partnered with brands like H&M and IKEA creating a circular fashion system when garments are recycled (Cernansky, 2022). Conclusion
Clothes used to be a primary need for humans, but now people are buying too many clothes making it a tertiary need (something that is “wanted” not “needed”). This caused a big problem: creating a fast fashion system which is prone to destruction for the environment and human labour. In the article by Eve Upton-Clarke shows the inconsiderate behaviour of consumerism in the fast fashion industry and proposes consumer-based solutions. I compliment
her solution by proposing another solution which is a transformation to a circular fashion system. Gen z are well aware of the environmental problem caused by fast fashion but they have no choice but to purchase cheap clothes (Upton-Clarke, 2023). In order to solve this comprehensively, government and stakeholders have an important role in policy making, both mandatory and non-mandatory. Media also hold a crucial role in revealing problematic companies and reinforcing transparency in the fashion industry. Authority is much needed in regulating a relatively free and scattered industry such as fashion. WORK CITED
Cernancy, R. (2022). Circular Fashion: Exciting to Talk About, Tough to Implement
. Vogue Business.
https://www.voguebusiness.com/sustainability/circular-fashion-exciting-to-talk-
about-tough-to-implement
Fraser, E., & van der Ven, H. (2022). Increasing transparency in global supply chains: The case of the fast fashion industry.
Sustainability, 14
(18), 11520. https://doi.org/10.3390/su141811520
Manshoven, S., & Wim, V. O. (2022). The carrot or the stick? stakeholder support for mandatory
regulations towards a circular fashion system.
Sustainability, 14
(22), 14671.
https://doi.org/10.3390/su142214671
Stallard, E. (2022, July 29). Fast fashion: How clothes are linked to climate change
. BBC News. https://www.bbc.com/news/science-environment-60382624
The environmental costs of Fast Fashion
. UNEP.(n.d.). https://www.unep.org/news-and-
stories/story/environmental-costs-fast-fashion
Toprak T., & Anis P. (2017). Textile industry’s environmental effects and approaching cleaner production and sustainability, an overview. J Text Eng Fash Technol 2(4):429–442. https://doi.org/10.15406/jteft.2017.02.00066
Upton-Clarke, E. (2023). The Devil Wears Shein
. Business Insider. https://www.businessinsider.com/gen-z-fast-fashion-cheap-clothes-tiktok-live-shopping-
addiction-2023-5
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