Chapter XXVI. ICES, ICE CREAMS, AND OTHER FROZEN DESSERTS.
ICES and other frozen dishes comprise the most popular desserts. Hygienically speaking, they cannot be recommended for the final course of a dinner, as cold mixtures reduce the temperature of the stomach, thus retarding digestion until the normal temperature is again reached. But how cooling, refreshing, and nourishing, when properly taken, and of what inestimable value in the sick room!
Mousse,—heavy cream, beaten until stiff, sweetened, flavored, placed in a mould, packed in salt and ice (using two parts crushed ice to one part salt), and allowed to stand three hours; or whip from thin cream may be used folded into mixture containing small quantity of gelatine.
The prejudice of thinking a frozen dessert difficult to prepare has long since been overcome. With ice cream freezer, burlap bag, wooden mallet or axe, small saucepan, sufficient ice and coarse rock salt, the process neither takes much time nor patience. Snow may be used instead of ice; if not readily acted on by salt, pour in one cup cold water. Crush ice finely by placing in bag and giving a few blows with mallet or broad side of axe; if there are any coarse pieces, remove them. Place can containing mixture to be frozen in wooden tub, cover, and adjust top. Turn crank to make sure can fits in socket. Allow three level measures ice to one of salt, and repeat until ice and salt come to top of can, packing solidly, using handle of mallet to force it down. If only small quantity is to be frozen, the ice and salt need come only a little higher in the tub than mixture to be frozen. These are found the best proportions of ice and salt to insure smooth, fine-grained cream, sherbet, or water ice, while equal parts of salt and ice are used for freezing frappé. If a larger proportion of salt is used, mixture will freeze in shorter time and be of granular consistency, which is desirable only for frappé.
The mixture increases in bulk during freezing, so the can should never be more than three-fourths filled; by over-crowding can, cream will be made coarse-grained. Turn the crank slowly and steadily to expose as large surface of mixture as possible to ice and salt. After frozen to a mush, the crank may be turned more rapidly, adding more ice and salt if needed; never draw off salt water until mixture is frozen, unless there is possibility of its getting into the can, for salt water is what effects freezing; until ice melts, no change will take place. After freezing is accomplished, draw off water, remove dasher, and with spoon pack solidly. Put cork in opening of cover, then put on cover. Re-pack freezer, using four measures ice to one of salt. Place over top newspapers or piece of carpet; when serving time comes, remove can, wipe carefully, and place in vessel of cool water; let stand one minute, remove cover, and run a knife around edge of cream, invert can on serving dish, and frozen mixture will slip out. Should there be any difficulty, a cloth wrung out of hot water, passed over can, will aid in removing mixture.
Allow mould to stand in salt and ice until well chilled. Remove cover, put in mixture by spoonfuls, and spread with back of spoon or a case knife evenly three-quarters inch thick.
When frozen mixtures are to be bricked or moulded, avoid freezing too hard. Pack mixture solidly in moulds and cover with buttered paper, buttered side up. Have moulds so well filled that mixture is forced down sides of mould when cover is pressed down. Re-pack in salt and ice, using four parts ice to one part salt. If these directions are carefully followed, one may feel no fear that salt water will enter cream, even though moulds be immersed in salt water.
Serve Lemon Ice in champagne glasses. Put three-fourths teaspoon Maraschino in each glass, and garnish with bananas cut in one-fourth inch slices, and slices cut in quarters, candied cherries cut in halves, Malaga grapes from which skins and seeds have been removed, and angelica cut in strips.
Sprinkle raspberries with sugar, cover, and lot stand two hours. Mash, squeeze through cheese-cloth, add water and lemon juice to taste, then freeze. Raspberry ice prepared in this way retains the natural color of the fruit.
Dissolve two cups sugar in three cups boiling water; cool, add three-fourths cup lemon juice, color with leaf green, and freeze. Serve in champagne glasses. Put one teaspoon crême de menthe in each glass, and sprinkle with finely chopped nut meats, using almonds, filberts, pecans, and walnuts in equal proportions. These may be used after the roast and before the game.
Cut ginger in small pieces, add water and sugar, boil fifteen minutes; add fruit juice, cool, strain, and freeze. To be used in place of punch at a course dinner. This quantity is enough to serve twelve persons.
Mix juice and sugar, stirring constantly while slowly adding milk; if added too rapidly mixture will have a curdled appearance, which is unsightly, but will not affect the quality of sherbet; freeze and serve.
Scald milk. Melt chocolate in small saucepan placed over hot water, add one-half the sugar, salt, and gradually boiling water. Boil five minutes, add to scalded milk with remaining sugar. Cool, freeze, and serve in glasses. Garnish with whipped cream sweetened and flavored with vanilla.
Make a syrup by boiling water and sugar fifteen minutes; add pineapple and lemon juice; cool, strain, add ice-water, and freeze to a mush, using equal parts ice and salt. If fresh fruit is used, more sugar will be required.
Drain apricots, and add to syrup the pulp rubbed through a sieve. Add sugar, wine, and lemon juice. Freeze to a mush, then fold in the whip obtained from cream. Let stand one and one-half hours, and serve in glasses.
Beat white of egg slightly, add cold water, and mix with coffee turn into scalded coffee-pot, add boiling water, and let boil one minute; place on back of range ten minutes; strain, add sugar, cool, and freeze same as Pineapple Frappé. Serve in frappé glasses, with whipped cream, sweetened and flavored.
Cook cranberries and water eight minutes; then force through a sieve. Add sugar and lemon juice, and freeze to a mush, using equal parts of ice and salt.
Wash clams thoroughly, changing water several times; put in stewpan with cold water, cover closely, and steam until shells open. Strain the liquor, cool, and freeze to a mush.
Pick over and wash cranberries, add water and sugar, and cook ten minutes, skimming during the cooking. Rub through a sieve, cool, and pour into one-pound baking-powder boxes. Pack in salt and ice, using equal parts, and let stand four hours. If there is not sufficient mixture to fill two boxes, add water to make up the desired quantity. Serve as a substitute for cranberry sauce or jelly.
Drain apricots, and cut in small pieces. To the syrup add enough water to make four cups, and cook with sugar five minutes; strain, add apricots, cool, and freeze. Peaches may be used instead of apricots. To make a richer dessert, add the whip from two cups cream when frozen to a mush, and continue freezing.
Make syrup by boiling sugar and water fifteen minutes; strain, cool, add pineapple, and freeze to a mush. Fold in whip from cream; let stand thirty minutes before serving. Serve in frappé glasses and garnish with candied pineapple.
Cook sugar, water, and lemon rind fifteen minutes, add lemon juice and pineapple, cool, strain, freeze to a mush, add strong liquors, and continue freezing. Serve in frappé glasses on a plate covered with a doiley.
Make a syrup by boiling sugar and water fifteen minutes. Add jelly, and, as soon as dissolved, add a piece of ice to cool mixture; then add and fruit juices, ale, and brandy. Color red, freeze to a mush, serve in glasses, and insert in each glass a small sprig of holly with berries.
Make syrup by boiling water and sugar ten minutes; pour over raisins, cool, and add fruit syrup and nutmeg; freeze to a mush, then add wine and whites of eggs beaten stiff, and continue freezing. Serve in glasses. Fruit syrup may be used which has been left from canned peaches, pears, or strawberries.
Mix ingredients, sweeten to taste, and chill. Serve in champagne glasses having glasses two-thirds full. Cover fruit to fill glasses with Strawberry Ice II and garnish with strawberries and angelica.
Cut canned sliced pineapple in pieces, pour over pineapple syrup to which is added Orange Curaçoa, allowing one-half as much syrup as fruit, cover and let stand one hour. Fill champagne glasses one-third full, add vanilla ice cream to fill glasses, and garnish with candied cherries and candied pineapple cut in pieces.
Mix flour, sugar, and salt, add egg slightly beaten, and milk gradually; cook over hot water twenty minutes, stirring constantly at first; should custard have curdled appearance, it will disappear in freezing. When cool, add cream and flavoring; strain and freeze.
Boil water and sugar five minutes. Mix chocolate with arrowroot to which water has been added. Combine mixtures, add salt, and boil three minutes. Flavor with vanilla, and serve hot.
Scald milk with coffee, and let stand twenty minutes. Mix remaining ingredients, and pour on gradually the hot infusion which has been strained. Cook five minutes, and serve hot.
Use recipe for Vanilla Ice Cream II. Melt two squares unsweetened chocolate, by placing in a small saucepan set in a larger saucepan of boiling water, and pour hot custard slowly on chocolate; then cool before adding cream.
Wash and hull berries, sprinkle with sugar, cover, and let stand two hours. Mash, and squeeze through cheese-cloth; then add salt. Freeze cream to the consistency of a mush, add gradually fruit juice, and finish freezing. Rice Jersey milk may be substituted for cream.
Wash and hull berries, sprinkle with sugar, let stand one hour, mash, and rub through strainer. Scald one and one-half cups milk; dilute arrowroot with remaining milk, add to hot milk, and cook ten minutes in double boiler; cool, add cream, freeze to a mush, add fruit, and finish freezing.
Scald milk with coffee, add one cup sugar; mix egg yolks slightly beaten with one-fourth cup sugar, and salt; combine mixtures, cook over hot water until thickened, add one cup cream, and let stand on back of range twenty-five minutes; cool, add remaining cream, and strain through double cheese-cloth; freeze. Coffee Ice Cream may be served with Maras-chino cherries or in halves of cantaloupes.
Prepare same as Vanilla Ice Cream II, using one-half sugar in custard; remaining half caramelize, and add slowly to hot custard. See Caramelization of Sugar, page 586.
Make custard of milk, eggs, one-third of the sugar, and salt. Caramelize remaining sugar, add nut meats, and turn into a slightly buttered pan. Cool, pound, and pass through a purée strainer. Add to custard, cool, then add one cup heavy cream, beaten until stiff, and vanilla. Freeze and mould.
Blanch almonds cut in pieces crosswise, and bake in a shallow pan until well browned, shaking pan frequently; then finely chop. Caramelize one-half of the sugar, and add slowly to two cups of the cream scalded. As soon as sugar is melted, add nuts, remaining sugar, and salt. Cool, add remaining cream, and freeze. A few grains salt is always an improvement to any ice cream mixture.
To recipe for Vanilla Ice Cream II, using one-half quantity vanilla, add one-half cup Canton ginger cut in small pieces, three tablespoons ginger syrup, and two tablespoons Sherry wine; then freeze.
Make custard of yolks of eggs, sugar, and milk; strain, add figs, cool, and flavor. Add whites of eggs beaten until stiff and heavy cream beaten until stiff; freeze and mould.
Mix first four ingredients, and add junket tablets dissolved in cold water. Turn into a pudding-dish and let stand until set. Add flavoring and coloring. Freeze, mould, and serve garnished with halves of peaches, filling cavities with halves of blanched almonds. Turn peaches into a saucepan, add one-third cup sugar, and cook slowly until syrup is thick. Cool before garnishing ice cream.
Mix first four ingredients. Remove stems from violets, and pound violets in a mortar until well macerated, then strain through cheese-cloth. Add extract to first mixture; color, freeze, and mould. Serve garnished with fresh or candied violets; the light purple cultivated violets should be used and the result will be most gratifying.
Make meringue of eggs and sugar as in Meringue I, cover a board with white paper, lay on sponge cake, turn ice cream on cake (which should extend one-half inch beyond cream), cover with meringue, and spread smoothly. Place on oven grate and brown quickly in hot oven. The board, paper, cake, and meringue are poor conductors of heat, and prevent the cream from melting. Slip from paper on ice cream platter.
Scald raisins in milk fifteen minutes, strain, make custard of milk, egg, sugar, flour, and salt; strain, cool, add pineapple, ginger cut in small pieces, nuts finely chopped, wine, and cream; then freeze. The raisins should be rinsed and saved for a pudding.
1 cup candied fruit, cherries, pineapples, pears, and apricots
2 eggs
Cut fruit in small pieces, and soak two or three hours in brandy to cover, which prevents fruit from freezing; make a custard of milk, sugar, salt, and eggs; strain, cool, add cream and rum, then freeze. Fill a brick mould with alternate layers of the cream and fruit; pack in salt and ice and let stand two hours.
Cut fruit in pieces, and soak several hours in brandy to cover. Mix cream, sugar, and rum, then freeze. Line a two-quart melon mould with lady fingers, crust side down; fill with alternate layers of the cream and fruit, cover, pack in salt and ice, and let stand two hours. Brandied peaches cut in pieces, with some of their syrup added, greatly improve the pudding.
Prepare same as Frozen Tom and Jerry. Freeze to a mush, add one cup mixed fruit which has been soaked in brandy to cover for twelve hours, using glacé cherries, Sultana raisins, sliced citron, and candied pineapple; then finish freezing. Serve in small beer jugs, and garnish with cream, whipped, sweetened, and flavored.
Make custard of milk, sugar, eggs, and salt; cool, strain, and flavor; whip cream, remove whip; there should be two quarts; add to custard, and freeze. Serve plain or with Angel Food.
Beat eggs until stiff, fold in sugar, cream whip, and flavoring; line a mould with Delmonico Ice Cream, fill with the mixture, cover, pack in salt and ice, and let stand two hours.
Mix fruit juices and sweeten to taste. Turn mixture in brick mould. Whip cream, and add sugar, vanilla, and nut meats; pour over the first mixture to overflow mould; cover with buttered paper, fit on cover, pack in salt and ice, and let stand three hours.
Line one-pound baking-powder boxes with Pistachio Ice Cream; sprinkle with Sultana raisins which have been soaked one hour in brandy; fill centres with Vanilla Ice Cream or whipped cream, sweetened, and flavored with vanilla; cover with Pistachio Ice Cream; pack in salt and ice, and let stand one and one-half hours.
Boil sugar and water until syrup will thread when dropped from tip of spoon. Pour slowly on the beaten whites of eggs, and continue the beating until mixture is cool. Add cream beaten until stiff, and vanilla; then freeze.
Scald milk with coffee, and add one-half the sugar; without straining, use this mixture for making custard, with eggs, salt, and remaining sugar; add one cup cream and let stand thirty minutes; cool, strain through double cheese-cloth, add remaining cream, and freeze. Line a mould, fill with Italian Meringue, cover, pack in salt and ice, using two parts crushed ice to one part rock salt, and let stand three hours.
Make syrup by boiling sugar and water; pour slowly on beaten whites of eggs, and continue beating. Place in pan of ice-water, and beat until cold; dissolve gelatine in small quantity boiling water; strain into mixture; whip cream, fold in whip, and flavor.
Line a mould with sherbet or water ice; fill with ice cream or thin Charlotte Russe mixture; cover, pack in salt and ice, and let stand two hours. The mould may be lined with ice cream. Pomegranate or Raspberry Ice and Vanilla or Macaroon Ice Cream make a good combination.
Caramelize sugar, add nut meats, turn into a buttered pan, cool, then pound in mortar and put through a purée strainer. Beat egg yolks until thick, add gradually caramel syrup, and cook in double boiler until mixture thickens; then beat until cold. Fold in cream beaten until stiff. Then add prepared nut meats, vanilla, and salt. Line melon mould with ice, turn in mixture, pack in salt and ice, and let stand three hours.
Make custard of first four ingredients, strain, cool, add cream, pineapple syrup, and marrons forced through a purée strainer; then freeze. Line a two-quart melon mould with part of mixture; to remainder add one-half cup candied fruit cut in small pieces, one-quarter cup Sultana raisins, and six marrons broken in pieces, first soaked several hours in Maraschino syrup. Fill mould, cover, pack in salt and ice, and let stand two hours. Serve with whipped cream, sweetened and flavored with Maraschino syrup.
Make a custard of first four ingredients, strain, cool; add cream, chestnut purée, flavoring, and glacé fruit cut in pieces and previously soaked in Maraschino three hours. Color with leaf green; freeze, mould, pack in salt and ice, and let stand two hours. Serve with
Fruit Sauce. Drain syrup from a pint jar of canned strawberry, raspberry, or pineapple, heat to boiling-point, thicken slightly with arrowroot, and color with fruit red.
1/3 cup, each, pistachio, filbert, English walnut, and almond meats
Yolks 5 eggs
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon almond extract
11/2 cups heavy cream
1 tablespoon vanilla
Make a custard of first four ingredients, strain, and cool. Add heavy cream beaten until stiff, whites of eggs beaten until stiff, nut meats finely chopped, and flavoring; then freeze.
Scald milk to which tea had been added, and let stand five minutes. Add sugar, and egg yolks slightly beaten, and cook until mixture thickens. Strain, add remaining ingredients, freeze, and mould. Serve garnished with Candied Orange Peel (p. 547).
Boil sugar and water eight minutes, then add orange juice. Scald cream, add yolks of eggs, and cook over hot water until mixture thickens. Cool, add to first mixture with heavy cream beaten stiff. Freeze; when nearly frozen, add orange peel. Line a melon mould with Orange Ice, fill with Orange Delicious, pack in salt and ice, and let stand one and one-half hours.
Wash and hull berries, sprinkle with sugar, and let stand one hour; mash, and rub through a fine sieve; add gelatine soaked in cold and dissolved in boiling water. Set in pan of ice-water and stir until it begins to thicken; then fold in whip from cream, put in mould, cover, pack in salt and ice, and let stand four hours. Raspberries may be used in place of strawberries.
Heat one can pineapple, and drain. To one cup of the syrup, add gelatine soaked in cold water, lemon juice, and sugar. Strain and cool. As mixture thickens, fold in the whip from cream. Mould, pack in salt and ice, and let stand four hours.
Melt chocolate, add powdered sugar, and gradually one cup cream. Stir over fire until boiling-point is reached, then add gelatine dissolved in boiling water, sugar, and vanilla. Strain mixture into a bowl, set in a pan of ice-water, stir constantly until mixture thickens, then fold in the whip from remaining cream. Mould, pack in salt and ice, and let stand four hours.
Beat eggs slightly, and pour on slowly maple syrup. Cook until mixture thickens, cool, and add cream beaten until stiff. Mould, pack in salt and ice, and let stand three hours.
Cook sugar and water five minutes, pour on to beaten whites of eggs, dissolve gelatine in one and one-half tablespoons boiling water, and add to first mixture. Set in a pan of ice-water, and stir until cold; add chestnuts, and fold in whip from cream and vanilla. Line a mould with ice cream, and fill with mixture; cover, pack in salt and ice, and let stand three hours.
Line a mould with Pomegranate Ice; fill with Italian Meringue made of three-fourths cup sugar, one-third cup hot water, whites two eggs, and one and one-half teaspoons granulated gelatine dissolved in two tablespoons boiling water. Beat until cold, and fold in whip from two cups cream; flavor with one teaspoon vanilla, cover, pack in salt and ice, and let stand three hours.
Freeze fruit juice and wine; boil sugar and water, pour on slowly to beaten whites of eggs, set in pan of salted ice-water, and stir until cold. Add to frozen mixture.
Serve vanilla ice cream in champagne glasses. Cover ice cream with whipped cream, sweetened, flavored with pistachio, and tinted very light green. Garnish with pistachio nuts or Malaga grapes cut in halves.
Break marron glacé in pieces, flavor with rum, cover, and let stand one hour. Put in champagne glasses, allowing one and one-half marrons to each glass, cover with vanilla ice cream, and garnish with whipped cream, sweetened and flavored with vanilla, and candied rose leaves.
Cover the bottom of small paper cases with vanilla ice cream, sprinkle ice cream with marron glacé broken in pieces, arrange lady fingers at equal distances, and allow them to extend one inch above cases. Pile whipped cream, sweetened and flavored, in the centre and garnish with marron glacé and candied violets or glacé cherries.
Line a brick mould with Vanilla Ice Cream, put in layer of lady fingers, and fill the centre with preserved strawberries or large fresh fruit cut in halves; cover with ice cream, pack in salt and ice, and let stand one hour. For ice cream, make custard of two and one-half cups milk, yolks four eggs, one cup sugar, and one-fourth teaspoon salt; strain, cool, add one cup heavy cream and one tablespoon vanilla; then freeze.
Bake Brioche in a Charlotte Russe mould or individual tins, cool, cut a slice from top of cake or cakes, and remove centre or centres, leaving a wall or walls one-half inch thick. Fill with rich Vanilla Ice Cream, invert on serving dish, and pour over
Apricot Marmalade. Drain one can apricots and force the fruit through a strainer. Cook syrup until sufficiently reduced to add to fruit, and make of consistency of marmalade. Add a few drops lemon juice and sugar if necessary. Decorate top with halves of apricots, glacé cherries, and whipped cream.
Line two and one-half inch flower-pots with paraffine paper. Fill with ice cream, cover cream with grated vanilla chocolate to represent earth, and insert a flower in each.
Mix cream, grape juice, and sugar. Add lemon or lime juice to taste. Freeze, and serve in glasses. Garnish with heavy cream beaten until stiff, sweetened, and flavored. Sprinkle cream with nuts.
Mix one and one-fourth cups sugar, one tablespoon flour, and one-fourth teaspoon salt. Add two eggs slightly beaten and two cups scalded milk. Cook over hot water until mixture thickens, then add two squares melted chocolate, and cool. Add three cups cream and one tablespoon vanilla. Strain and freeze. Just before serving add three cups zweiback dried and broken in small pieces.
Mix fruit juice, sugar, and yolks of eggs. Cook over boiling water until mixture thickens; then add gelatine dissolved in boiling water. Cool, freeze to a mush, add whip from cream, and continue freezing. Mould, and serve garnished with candied orange peel and pistachio nuts.
Soak macaroons in thin cream one hour, add sugar, wine, and freeze to a mush; then add heavy cream beaten stiff. Mould, pack in salt and ice, and let stand two hours.
Trim lady fingers, arrange on plate in form of box. Keep in place with ribbon one-half inch wide, and fasten at one corner by tying ribbon in a bow. Garnish opposite corner with flowers of same color as ribbon. Remove ice cream from brick, cut a slice three-fourths inch thick, and place it in box.
Beat yolks of eggs slightly; add lemon juice, grated rind, wine, sugar, and salt; cook until mixture thickens, stirring constantly. Add whites of eggs beaten stiff, and when well mixed, set in a pan of ice-water to cool, stirring occasionally. Beat cream until stiff, and add. Fill small paper cases with mixture, cover with macaroon dust, and set in a tin mould with tight-fitting cover. Pack mould in salt and ice, and let stand two hours.
Make custard of milk, one-half the sugar, egg yolks, and salt. Caramelize the remaining sugar and add. Strain, cool, add remaining ingredients, freeze, and mould. If a baked ice cream is desired, use whites of eggs for meringue, Baked Alaska .
Mould ice cream in brick form or one-half pound baking-powder boxes. Remove from mould or moulds, and surround with lady fingers, trimmed to come to top of cream. Cover top with whipped cream, sweetened and flavored, and pipe cream between lady fingers. Baking-powder boxes are used when individual service is desired, the cream being cut in halves crosswise.
