LET the reader conceive to himself a clear frosty November morning, the scene an open heath, having for the background that huge chain of mountains in which Skiddaw and Saddleback are pre-eminent; let him look along that blind road, by which I mean the track so slightly marked by the passengers footsteps, that it can but be traced by a slight shade of verdure from the darker heath around it, and, being only visible to the eye when at some distance, ceases to be distinguished while the foot is actually treading it. along this faintly-traced path advances the object of our present narrative. His firm step, his erect and free carriage, have a military air, which corresponds well with his well-proportioned limbs, and stature of six feet high. His dress is so plain and simple, that it indicates nothing as to rank: it may be that of a gentleman who travels in this manner for his pleasureor of an inferior person of whom it is the proper and usual garb. Nothing can be on a more reduced scale than his travelling equipment. A volume of Shakespeare in each pocket, a small bundle with a change of linen slung across his shoulders, an oaken cudgel in his hand, complete our pedestrians accommodations; and in this equipage we present him to our readers.
The first two or three miles were rather melancholy, from want of the society to which he had of late been accustomed. But this unusual mood of mind soon gave way to the influence of his natural good spirits, excited by the exercise and the bracing effects of the frosty air. He whistled as he went along,not from want of thought, but to give vent to those buoyant feelings which he had no other mode of expressing. For each peasant whom he chanced to meet, he had a kind greeting or a good-humoured jest: the hardy Cumbrians grinned as they passed, and said, Thats a kind heart, God bless un! and the market-girl looked more than once over her shoulder at the athletic form, which corresponded so well with the frank and blithe address of the stranger. A rough terrier dog, his constant companion, who rivalled his master in glee, scampered at large in a thousand wheels round the heath, and came back to jump up on him and assure him that he participated in the pleasure of the journey. Dr. Johnson thought life had few things better than the excitation produced by being whirled rapidly along in a post-chaise; but he who has in youth experienced the confident and independent feeling of a stout pedestrian in an interesting country and during fine weather, will hold the taste of the great moralist cheap in comparison.
Part of Browns view in choosing that unusual tract which leads through the eastern wilds of Cumberland into Scotland, had been a desire to view the remains of the celebrated Roman Wall, which are more visible in that direction than in any other part of its extent. His education had been imperfect and desultory; but neither the busy scenes in which he had been engaged, nor the pleasures of youth, nor the precarious state of his own circumstances, had diverted him from the task of mental improvement.And this, then, is the Roman Wall, he said, scrambling up to a height which commanded the course of that celebrated work of antiquity; What a people! whose labours, even at this extremity of their empire, comprehended such space, and were executed upon a scale of such grandeur! In future ages, when the science of war shall have changed, how few traces will exist of the labours of Vauban and Coehorn, while this wonderful peoples remains will even then continue to interest and astonish posterity! Their fortifications, their aqueducts, their theatres, their fountains, all their public works, bear the grave, solid, and majestic character of their language; while our modern labours like our modern tongues seem but constructed out of their fragments. Having thus moralized, he remembered that he was hungry, and pursued his walk to a small public-house at which he proposed to get some refreshment.
The alehouse, for it was no better, was situated in the bottom of a little dell, through which trilled a small rivulet. It was shaded by a large ash tree, against which the claybuilt shed, that served the purpose of a stable, was erected, and upon which it seemed partly to recline. In this shed stood a saddled horse, employed in eating his corn. The cottages in this part of Cumberland partake of the rudeness which characterizes those of Scotland.The outside of the house promised little for the interior, nothwithstanding the vaunt of a sign, where a tankard of ale voluntarily decanted itself into a tumbler, and a hieroglyphical scrawl below attempted to express a promise of good entertainment for man and horse. Brown was no fastidious travellerhe stooped and entered the cabaret.n
The first object which caught his eye in the kitchen, was a tall, stout, country-looking man, in a large jockey great-coat, the owner of the horse which stood in the shed, who was busy discussing huge slices of cold boiled beef, and casting from time to time an eye through the window, to see how his steed sped with his provender. A large tankard of ale flanked his plate of victuals, to which he applied himself by intervals. The good woman of the house was employed in baking. The fire, as is usual in that country, was on a stone hearth in the midst of an immensely large chimney, which had two seats extended beneath the vent. On one of these sat a remarkably tall woman, in a red cloak and slouched bonnet, having the appearance of a tinker or beggar. She was busily engaged with a short black tobacco-pipe.
At the request of Brown for some food, the landlady wiped with her mealy apron one corner of the deal table, placed a wooden trencher and knife and fork before the traveller, pointed to the round of beef, recommended Mr. Dinmonts good example, and, finally, filled a brown pitcher with her home-brewed. Brown lost no time in doing ample credit to both. For a while, his opposite neighbour and he were too busy to take much notice of each other, except by a good-humoured nod as each in turn raised the tankard to his head. At length, when our pedestrian began to supply the wants of little Wasp, the Scotch store-farmer, for such was Mr. Dinmont, found himself at leisure to enter into conversation.
Aye, sir?that s a pity, begging your pardonit s a great pity thatbeast or body, education should ay be minded. I have six terriers at hame, forbye twa couple of slowhunds, five grews, and a wheen other dogs. Theres auld Pepper and auld Mustard, and young Pepper and young Mustard, and little Pepper and little Mustard; I had them a regularly entered, first wi rottensthen wi stots or weaselsand then wi the tods and brocksand now they fear naething that ever cam wi a hairy skin on t.
Oh, that s a fancy of my ain to mark the breed, sirThe Deuke himsell has sent as far as Charlies-hope to get ane o Dandy Dinmonts Pepper and Mustard terriersLord, man, he sent Tam Hudson1 the keeper, and sicken a day as we had wi the fumarts and the tods, and sicken a blythe gaedown as we had again een! Faith, that was a night!
There nowI could guess that by your Southland tongue. Its very odd of these English folk that come here, how few of them has seen a blackcock! Ill tell you whatye seem to be an honest lad, and if youll call on meon Dandy Dinmontat Charlies-hopeye shall see a blackcock, and shoot a blackcock, and eat a blackcock too, man.
No, unless ye can walk up to fourteen mile an hour. But ye can come ower the night as far as Riccarton, where there is a publicor if ye like to stop at Jockey Grieves at the Heuch, they would be blythe to see ye, and I am just gaun to stop and drink a dram at the door wi him, and I would tell him youre coming up;or stayGudewife, could ye lend this gentleman the gudemans galloway, and Ill send it ower the Waste in the morning wi the callant?
The galloway was turned out upon the fell, and was swear to catch.Aweel, aweel, there s nae help for t, but come up the morn at ony rate.And now, gudewife, I maun ride, to get to the Liddel or it be dark, for your Waste has but a kittle character, ye ken yoursell.
Hout fie, Mr. Dinmont, that s no like you, to gie the country an ill name.I wot, there has been nane stirred in the Waste since Sawney Culloch, the travelling-merchant, that Rowley Overdees and Jock Penny suffered for at Carlisle twa years since. Theres no ane in Bewcastle would do the like o that nowwe be a true folk now.
Ay, Tib, that will be when the deils blind,and his eens no sair yet. But hear ye, gudewife, I have been through maist feck o Galloway and Dumfries-shire, and I have been round by Carlisle, and I was at the Staneshiebank fair the day, and I would like ill to be rubbit sae near hameso Ill take the gate.
Selld! echoed the gipsy, with something like a scream; and wha durst buy Ellangowan that was not of Bertrams blude?and wha could tell whether the bonny knave-bairn may not come back to claim his ain?wha durst buy the estate and the castle of Ellangowan?
Glossin!Gibbie Glossin!that I have carried in my creels a hundred times, for his mother wasna muckle better than mysellhe to presume to buy the barony of Ellangowan!Gude be wi usit is an awfu warld! I wished him illbut no sic a downfa as a that neither: wae s me! wae s me to think ot!She remained a moment silent, but still opposing with her hand the farmers retreat, who, betwixt every question, was about to turn his back, but good-humouredly stopped on observing the deep interest his answers appeared to excite.
Na, he s got some other berth in Edinburgh, they saybut gude day, gudewife, I maun ride.She followed him to his horse, and, while he drew the girths of his saddle, adjusted the walise and put on the bridle, still plied him with questions concerning Mr. Bertrams death, and the fate of his daughter; on which, however, she could obtain little information from the honest farmer.
It was a blyth bit ance! said Meg, speaking to herself. Did ye notice if there was an auld saugh tree that s maist blawn down, but yet its roots are in the earth, and it hangs ower the bit burn?mony a day hae I wrought my stocking, and sat on my sunkie under that saugh.
Hout, deils i the wife, wi her saughs, and her sunkies, and Ellangowans.Godsake, woman, let me away;theres saxpence tye to buy half a mutchkin, instead o clavering about thae auld warld stories.
Thanks to ye, gudemanand now ye hae answered a my questions and never speired wherefore I asked them, Ill gie you a bit canny advice, and ye maunna speir what for neither. Tib Mumps will be out wi the stirrup-dram in a gliffing; shell ask ye whether ye gang over Willies brae or through Conscowthart-moss;tell her ony ane ye like, but be sure (speaking low and emphatically) to tak the ane ye dinna tell her. The farmer laughed and promised, and the gipsy retreated.
That will I nothe randy quean! Na, I had far rather Tib Mumps kennd which way I was gaun than herthough Tibs no muckle to lippen to neither, and I would advise ye on no account to stay in the house a night.
In a moment after, Tib, the landlady, appeared with her stirrup-cup, which was taken off. She then, as Meg had predicted, inquired whether he went the hill or the moss road. He answered the latter; and, having bid Brown good-bye, and again told him he depended on seeing him at Charlieshope, the morn at latest he rode off at a round pace.